Hong Kong’s Lung Wah Hotel, famed for its roast pigeon, is in a compound tucked into a hillside just steps from the railway track in Sha Tin new town.

Built in 1938 as a rural retreat, Lung Wah was turned into a combined hotel and restaurant in 1951. The guest rooms were closed in 1985, but the restaurant soldiered on and the founding Chung family plan to celebrate its 70th anniversary next year by taking it in a new direction.