36 Hours in the Catskills, N.Y.
The Catskills, N.Y.
Jump to:
By Ingrid K. Williams Photographs by Graham Dickie
June 18, 2026
Nearly a century after the Catskills became known as “the Borscht Belt” because of its widespread popularity among vacationing Jewish families, the vast region is primed for another heyday. About two-and-a-half-hours northwest of New York City by car, this fresh-air escape spanning nearly 6,000 square miles has seen a wave of openings in recent years — craft cocktail bars and farmhouse cafes, upscale boutique hotels and glamping outfitters — that have enlivened many sleepy small towns and attracted a new generation of weekenders from the boroughs. One thing that hasn’t changed much over the years, thankfully, is the well-preserved nature: the dense forests, trout-filled creeks, bracingly cold swimming holes and dozens of peakstopping 3,500 feet. This itinerary hits a mix of summertime diversions, from Woodstock in the east to Roscoe in the west.
Key stops
Kaaterskill Falls, an enchanting, two-tiered waterfall cascading 260 feet, looks much as it did in the 19th century when painted by influential Hudson River School artists like Thomas Cole.
Dette Flies, a family-run fly-fishing shop in Livingston Manor, has been a go-to resource for area anglers since 1928 and also offers introductory fly-fishing lessons.
The Catskill Art Space re-opened in 2022, showcasing a range of contemporary artworks from pillow-like plaster sculptures by the local artist Ian McMahon to a meditative light installation by James Turrell.
The Phoenicia Diner is a classic roadside pit-stop with an all-day menu of outstanding diner fare, including fluffy buttermilk pancakes and cast-iron skillets of scrambled eggs with smoked trout, Parmesan cheese and chives.
Attractions and outdoor activities
The Overlook Mountain Spur Trail is a moderately strenuous path on an easy-to-follow gravel road near Woodstock with a fire tower at the lookout and views across the Hudson River basin.
At Levon Helm Studios, on the estate of the late drummer, intimate concerts are held in the barn, which is best known for its multigenerational Midnight Ramble sessions.
Maverick Concert Hall hosts performances of chamber music ensembles, jazz groups and indie singer-songwriters in a barn-like venue in the woods that was originally constructed in 1916 as part of an artists’ colony.
The Bearsville Theater is a newly renovated concert hall within a legendary complex founded by Bob Dylan’s former manager, Albert Grossman, where many famous musicians have worked over the years.
The Giant Ledge hike is short but challenging with a steep initial incline that leads to a series of rocky ledges with excellent views across the central Catskills.
At the Catskills Fly Fishing Center and Museum, learn about the history of the sport in the region and, on some Saturdays, watch fly-tying demos with nimble-fingered experts.
The Ashokan Rail Trail is an accessible 11.5-mile trail along the northern edge of one of the six major reservoirs in the region that supply drinking water to New York City.
The Diamond Notch Trail is an easy path of about a mile following West Kill Creek to the cascading water of Diamond Notch Falls.
Restaurants, bars and breweries
Julia’s Local is an inviting restaurant in Round Top run by a local couple, Julia Joern and the chef Henning Nordanger, who serve Scandinavian-inspired fare with fresh produce from their garden. (Ms. Joern, for whom the restaurant is named, manages front-of-house and bartends.)
Small Talk is a cozy new cocktail bar on Tinker Street in Woodstock pouring pickled-pepper martinis and applejack Manhattans.
Shandaken Bake is a sweet bakery that opened in Tannersville in 2022 where the glass case is filled with goodies like blackberry-studded scones and tart Key lime pie bars.
Fred’s Coffee & Donuts, down the road in Tannersville, is a drive-through favorite for maple-glazed apple-cider doughnuts.
Fellow Mountain Cafe, near the base of Hunter Mountain, is a popular breakfast spot serving coffee, cinnamon rolls and egg-and-cheese sandwiches on Cheddar biscuits.
Upward Brewing Company, on the outskirts of Livingston Manor, is a laid-back brewery with a great, lower-alcohol session I.P.A. and plenty of picnic tables for relaxing on the lawn.
The Junction is a casual restaurant in Roscoe opened by a couple of avid fly-fishers, where every meal should include a frozen drink and the smoked trout spread with fried saltines.
The Stumble Out Bar, a sunny Main Street spot in Livingston Manor, serves specialty cocktails and shareable small plates such as focaccia topped with tinned seafood and burrata.
West Kill Brewing, a pilgrimage-worthy craft brewery located five miles down a dead-end road, serves hazy I.P.A.s and crisp lagers made with pure mountain well water in a taproom overlooking West Kill Mountain.
Shopping
Tannersville Antiques, a sprawling store on Tannersville’s main drag, is the place to find stuffed fox tails, a vintage toboggan or a kitschy garden gnome.
Old Souls is a well-stocked outfitter in Livingston Manor with fashionable hiking gear, trail maps and camping supplies.
Across the street, Corners is an art shop filled with framed prints, carved-wood sculptures and design magazines.
Seasons is a nearby boutique stocked with colorful glass tumblers, beeswax candles, chore coats and cute kids’ clothing from hard-to-find brands.
Where to stay
The Henson is a refined 16-room hotel in Hensonville that opened in 2024 with beautifully designed gardens, common spaces and a restaurant, Matilda, run by the chefs Fabián von Hauske Valtierra and Jeremiah Stone, who also own Bar Contra and Wildair in New York City. Rooms start at about $400.
Deer Mountain Inn, on a hilltop above Tannersville, is an idyllic mountain retreat dating to the 1880s with crackling fireplaces and wood-paneled walls. There are six guest rooms and an atmospheric restaurant in the main inn, as well as four new cabins and a four-bedroom cottage tucked away on 168 wooded acres. Rooms start at $390.
Hotel Lilien, a boutique property in a Victorian mansion, opened in 2022 on Tannersville’s main drag. The 22 updated guest rooms feature cool art and antiques, and there’s also a fun cocktail lounge with live music on weekends and an outdoor pool open from June to September. Rooms start at about $300.
Many hotels in the Catskills, including these three, require a two- or three-night minimum stay on weekends in the summer.
For short-term rentals, look on Airbnb, VRBO or a Northeast-specific agency like Red Cottage for cottages and cabins in the central Catskills around Hunter or Phoenicia, many of which can accommodate families, dogs and larger groups.
Getting around
Trailways buses connect some towns in the Catskills to New York City, including Phoenicia and Woodstock (from around $40 one-way), but once there, you’ll need a car to get around. Download maps in advance; cell service is spotty in the mountains.
It’s about two-and-a-half miles to the scenic lookout of the Overlook Mountain Spur Trail — but the views are well worth the trip.
2 p.m. Take in the view
The Catskills is a hiker’s paradise, so lace up your boots and head straight to the Overlook Mountain Spur Trail, a rocky but easy-to-follow path north of the town of Woodstock. From the trailhead, across the road from a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, it’s about two-and-a-half miles to the scenic lookout. Along the way, stop at the spooky, charred ruins of the Overlook Mountain House, a former hotel from the 1800s, where you can still walk the grounds. From the lookout, admire the panoramic view across the Hudson River basin, or climb the 60-foot fire tower for an even better vantage before doubling back to the trailhead.
It’s about two-and-a-half miles to the scenic lookout of the Overlook Mountain Spur Trail — but the views are well worth the trip.
6:30 p.m. Feast on garden-to-plate fare
A warm welcome awaits in the sleepy hamlet of Round Top, where in 2023, a local couple, Julia Joern and Henning Nordanger, opened the inviting restaurant Julia’s Local. (Ms. Joern, for whom the restaurant is named, manages front-of-house and bartends; Mr. Nordanger, the chef, previously ran the kitchen at the now-shuttered Henning’s Local.) The Scandinavian-inspired menu changes daily depending on what’s growing in the owners’ nearby garden. Recent highlights included soft popovers with sorrel butter, a peppery salad of wild mustard greens with just-picked baby radishes and sage vinaigrette, and juniper-cured gravlax with housemade Danish rye, all served on whimsical pottery made by the ceramicist Rita Seiko Payne. Start a meal with an icy shot of aquavit, a nod to Mr. Nordanger’s Norwegian roots, and finish with a lemon posset, similar to a curd, topped with a deliciously chewy almond kransekake cookie. (Dinner for two, about $100; service included.)
Small Talk
8 p.m. Catch a tune in a barn
Although Woodstock wasn’t home to the 1969 music festival (that took place in Bethel, about 60 miles southwest), the musical roots of this small town run deep. Snag tickets to an intimate concert in the barn at the Levon Helm Studios, best known for its multigenerational Midnight Ramble sessions (from $35). Or head into the woods for a performance at the Maverick Concert Hall, constructed in 1916 as part of an artists’ colony that today hosts chamber music ensembles, jazz groups and indie singer-songwriters (from about $20). Or watch a show at the recently renovated Bearsville Theater, part of a complex founded in the 1960s by Bob Dylan’s former manager, Albert Grossman, where The Band, Phish and many others have recorded (from about $30). Afterward, grab a nightcap at Small Talk, a cozy new cocktail bar serving pickled-pepper martinis ($16) and applejack Manhattans ($15).
Small Talk
The band Futurebirds are among the acts you can catch at Levon Helm Studios in Woodstock, N.Y.
Kaaterskill Falls
8 a.m. Walk to the falls
Early birds eager to spend as much time outdoors as possible should start the day at the enchanting, two-tiered Kaaterskill Falls, cascading over 260 feet, one of the top attractions in the northern Catskills. From the Laurel House Trailhead, follow the short, easy path to a viewing platform beside the mesmerizing waterfall (about a half-mile round-trip). Along the way, stop at the lookout toward Kaaterskill Clove, a scenic valley painted by influential 19th-century Hudson River School artists, including Thomas Cole — and a foundational stop on the Hudson River School Art Trail.
Kaaterskill Falls
Key lime pie bars are a specialty of Shandaken Bake in Tannersville, N.Y.
10 a.m. Choose a sweet treat or a savory breakfast
Fuel up for the day along Route 23A. Indulge in blackberry-studded scones ($5.50) and tart Key lime pie bars ($10) at Shandaken Bake, a Tannersville bakery that opened in 2022, then poke around Tannersville Antiques, right across the street. Or continue down the road to Fred’s Coffee & Donuts, a drive-through favorite with maple-glazed apple-cider donuts ($2.08). To skip the sugar, head straight to Fellow Mountain Cafe, near the base of Hunter Mountain, for an egg-and-cheese sandwich on a Cheddar biscuit ($10). Then hit the road heading west to Livingston Manor. If you need to stretch your legs along the way, pull over at the Giant Ledge Trailhead for a short but challenging mile-and-a-half hike to a series of stone ledges with spectacular views.
Key lime pie bars are a specialty of Shandaken Bake in Tannersville, N.Y.
Dette Flies
1 p.m. Learn to cast on the creek
Modern American dry fly fishing, which uses artificial flies designed to mimic live insects, began in the western Catskills, a micro-region of crystalline creeks, rivers and streams teeming with trout. Want to join anglers casting on the Willowemoc and Esopus creeks? Start at Dette Flies, a family-run fly-fishing shop in Livingston Manor that has been a go-to resource for area anglers since 1928. Book a two-hour introductory lesson to learn the basics of casting before heading into the water to test your skills on the creek ($90 per person, gear included). Those who prefer to watch from dry land can head across a 19th-century covered bridge en route to the Catskills Fly Fishing Center and Museum to see fly-tying demonstrations and learn about the history of the sport in the region ($12).
Dette Flies
Downtown Livingston Manor
3 p.m. Peek into Main Street shops and galleries
Down the street from Dette Flies, the Catskill Art Space re-opened in 2022 with expanded gallery spaces for its contemporary artworks (free admission). Upstairs, see colorful wall drawings by Sol LeWitt and enter a meditative, colorless light installation by James Turrell (through 2027). Then browse nearby shops, like Old Souls, a well-stocked outfitter with fashionable hiking gear, trail maps and camping supplies. Across the street, Corners is an art shop with framed prints, carved-wood sculptures and design magazines. Continue to Seasons, a nearby boutique stocked with colorful glass tumblers, beeswax candles, chore coats and cute kids’ clothing from hard-to-find brands. Then head up the road to Upward Brewing Company to unwind with a Breadwinner session I.P.A., a slightly lower-alcohol brew, at a picnic table on the lawn.
Downtown Livingston Manor
The Junction
7 p.m. Dine at the bar
To rub elbows with seasoned anglers and off-duty fly-fishing instructors, take a seat at the bar at the Junction, a local hangout a few miles down the creek in Roscoe, a hamlet that calls itself “Trout Town, USA.” This casual restaurant, opened by a couple who are avid fly-fishers, serves creative cocktails and seasonal specials, like a spring-pea orecchiette pasta, but don’t miss the delicious smoked trout spread made with cornichons, capers and crème fraîche and served with a pile of fried saltines ($12). Or try the Stumble Out Bar, a sunny Main Street spot in Livingston Manor with specialty cocktails and shareable small plates such as housemade focaccia topped with tinned seafood and burrata ($16).
The Junction
North of Woodstock, the Overlook Mountain Spur Trail is a rocky but easy-to-follow path that passes the ruins of a former hotel from the 1800s.
Phoenicia Diner
8 a.m. Drop in for breakfast at the diner
Arrive early to avoid a wait at the Phoenicia Diner, a classic roadside pit-stop beside Esopus Creek. You may recognize the 1960s-era restaurant from its appearances in the television series “Severance,” but the reason it remains so popular is the all-day menu of outstanding diner fare made with local ingredients. Take a seat in one of the cozy chrome-and-green-leatherette booths and order a cup of coffee (or a boozy milkshake) and the fluffy buttermilk pancakes with fresh fruit and maple syrup ($15) or an Arnold Bennett, a mini cast-iron skillet with scrambled eggs, smoked trout, Parmesan cheese and chives ($19).
Phoenicia Diner
10:30 a.m. Stroll along the reservoir
A few miles down the road, park at the Boiceville Bridge Trailhead for an easy stroll or bike ride along the Ashokan Rail Trail, an accessible 11.5-mile trail that was completed in 2020. After crossing a bridge over Esopus Creek, the shaded trail skirts the northern edge of the Ashokan Reservoir, one of six major reservoirs in the region that supply drinking water to New York City. Enjoy beautiful views of the reservoir and surrounding forests from the trail — straying is strictly prohibited to protect the water supply.
Once you’re on the Diamond Notch Trail, follow the path along the creek about a mile to Diamond Notch Falls.
12 p.m. Sip then swim
Rest your heels after a long walk at West Kill Brewing, a craft brewery north of Phoenicia. Tucked in the mountains five miles down a dead-end road, the taproom feels like a backwoods hunting lodge, with taxidermied ducks and bucks on the walls, a giant stone fireplace and eight taps with antler handles. Order one of the excellent, easy-drinking beers, all brewed on site with pure mountain well water, like the hazy Kaaterskill I.P.A. or the crisp Brookie lager, and take a seat outside on the patio with a view of West Kill Mountain. To squeeze in one final outdoor adventure, continue down Spruceton Road to the Diamond Notch Trail, and follow the path along the creek about a mile to Diamond Notch Falls for a cooling dip in a natural swimming hole.
Once you’re on the Diamond Notch Trail, follow the path along the creek about a mile to Diamond Notch Falls.
May 3, 2023
June 21, 2019
Sept. 12, 2024
……Read full article on The New York Times-NY
Other
One-stop lifestyle app dedicated to making life in Singapore a breeze!
English
简体中文
Comments
Leave a comment in Nestia App