Opening

Cafe Commerce

Though closed for nearly a decade, Commerce in the West Village has been reconfigured on the Upper East Side by Harold Moore, its former executive chef and co-owner. Warmly lit, the 55-seat bistro now leans Art Deco without insisting; an oblong mural by David Joel from the downtown spot, hangs over the bar. Mr. Moore, steeped in the French idiom after working with Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud, serves roast chicken with foie gras stuffing, stretching the budget at $99, one of several dishes for two. Farther afield are chicken schnitzel, steak Diane and a towering coconut cake. Regulars at Charlie Palmer restaurants might recognize the general manager, Charles Pouchot.