KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 13 — Chef Lau Ka Hong of Atelier Binchotan is going back to his roots.

Before he helmed the grill at one of KL’s hottest tables — reservations can be full months at a time — Lau cut his teeth in classical French cooking, most notably spending two years at the Joël Robuchon Restaurant Singapore, the country's sole three-Michelin-starred restaurant at the time.