One of my favourite fish cookbooks flies a bit under the radar. It was published in 2004. It’s simply called Fresh and was written by self-taught chef, fishmonger and restaurateur Mitch Tonks. I have other excellent fish cookbooks (hello, Rick Stein) and some that are complete A-Zs of fish: how to fillet and skin them, how to make the classic accompaniments and the best-known dishes (hollandaise sauce and lobster thermidor, for example). These A-Zs are not as old-fashioned as they might sound. As we’ve embraced Asian and Middle Eastern ingredients, we’re now more likely to make Vietnamese scallop salad than lobster bisque, so old classics are joined by the less familiar.