Beyond mere production, watchmaking involves a deep understanding of materials, techniques and skill refinement.

Artisanal handiwork such as hand-engraving sets each timepiece apart by imparting a unique identity to it.

Such is the legacy of Louis Erard’s Gravée Main, while innovative craftsmanship − a modern blend of new materials, refined movements, and bold design − gives Maurice Lacroix’s Aikonic unparalleled distinction.

Louis Erard’s Gravée Main

Since 2021, Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard has been pushing the boundaries of Métiers d’Art: Grand Feu enamel, guilloché, wood marquetry, and gold wire inlay.

Gravée Main opens a new chapter as it pays tribute to one of the oldest crafts in watchmaking: hand-engraving.

By the 18th century, engraving was found on pocket watches as well as comtoise clocks, and swirling Baroque floral motifs flourished.

Gravée Main brings both traditions together, resulting in a watch like no other.

Each surface − case, bezel, lugs, crown and buckle − is shaped and decorated through a precise multi-step engraving process that takes more than 50 hours.

The Gravée Main is art personified on the wrist, an age-old tradition that perpetuates centuries-old craftsmanship.

“What I love most about these collaborations is how a minimalist watch becomes something completely different at the artist’s hand,” says Louis Erard CEO Manuel Emch.

“Starting from the clean lines of the Noirmont, baroque floral motifs take over the entire object.

“It’s steel, yet it feels alive.

The Maurice Lacroix Aikonic in blue.

“Gravée Main is all about contrast: lavish ornamentation clashing beautifully with pure design.

“This watch is unique not just in what it shows, but in what it says.

“It speaks of time, art, legacy as well as resilience, the duty to protect and transmit rare crafts.

“Artistic crafts should be worn, lived and passed on. That’s our mission,” says Emch.

Starting with a design, the artist then refines the pattern and transfers it freehand or with a stencil.

The surface is first drypoint-etched to guide the engraving, line by line, adapting each movement to the shape and contour of the watch.

Once engraved, details, shading and textures are added by hand.

The case is polished to bring out contrast and depth.

Finally, visual balance is checked and structural integrity tested to ensure quality control.

Inspired by baroque clocks, the Gravée Main dial pairs Roman numerals and pear-shaped rhodium-plated hands in a modern reinterpretation.

It has a glossy black lacquer finish with anthracite and black transferred prints.

Louis Erard Gravée Main.

Each Gravée Main is engraved by hand in Ukraine by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and artist known for transforming antique timepieces into modern hybrids.

“What began as a series of design exchanges over a year ago, became a full creative partnership.

“They didn’t just want to use engraving as a visual decoration, but wanted to rethink the entire watch around it and let the steel speak,” says Shavlak.

With Gravée Main, Louis Erard has expanded its Métiers d’Art series, following launches in Grand Feu enamel, wood marquetry, and guilloché.

Two new techniques have made their debut at Geneva Watch Days: Gravée Main (hand engraved) and Fil d’Or (gold wire inlay).

Such skills are often reserved for collectors of inaccessible timepieces, but Louis Erard has managed to build bridges between craft and wearability, tradition and modernity, rarity and reach.

Maurice Lacroix’s Aikonic

Since the launch of its Aikon range in 2016, Maurice Lacroix has built one of its most successful and recognisable urban watch collections.

Now the brand from the Franches-Montagnes introduces the Aikonic, a new line based on the DNA of the Aikon while showcasing what it calls “Innovative Craftsmanship” (IC).

Crafted at the manufacture in Saignelégier, the Aikonic combines Swiss know-how, cutting-edge materials, and locally sourced components while remaining true to the brand’s philosophy of accessible excellence.

The Aikonic takes the familiar silhouette of Aikon, incorporating IC by featuring a new ultra-refined automatic calibre, inventive case and dial materials and the patented ML Easy Change system.

At the heart is a striking carbon dial.

The intricate hand-engraving on Gravée Main.Unlike traditional carbon-fibre weaves, this dial features fibres aligned vertically, resulting in sleek grey-and-black striations.

Each dial is unique due to the natural variation in carbon fibre arrangement.

Normally reserved for haute horlogerie, this distinctive material has been democratised by Maurice Lacroix, which collaborated with a specialist firm approximately 40km from Saignelégier to produce it, consistent with the Maison’s desire to imbue a distinct local identity into each piece.

Aikon fans will recognise the six double-width arms on its bezel, now crafted in matte ceramic on Aikonic.

The crown is also ceramic, ensuring scratch resistance and colour stability over time.

The stainless-steel case juxtaposes brushed and polished surfaces, while variable chamfreins catch the light for added depth.

Anti-reflective sapphire crystal, coated on both sides, enhances legibility and even improves resistance to salt water.

Another example of innovation is the patented ML Easy Change mechanism.

Linked by a sporty rubber strap with textile-look inserts, the watch allows tool-free strap and bracelet swaps.

The system uses pivoting links that release with a click, letting wearers transform the Aikonic’s look in seconds.

Maurice Lacroix has also come up with a new high-grade automatic movement.

Developed with Soprod, the ML1000 calibre boasts myriad refinements, some pf which are visible via the exhibition caseback.

Equipped with superior stability, thanks to the double-screw balance bridge, the watch features a large, openworked oscillating weight that boosts reliability and meticulous finishing which includes blued screws, perlage and Côtes de Genève.

Beyond its edgy looks, the movement delivers accuracy of ±4 seconds per day and a robust 60-hour power reserve.

“We wanted to demonstrate our know-how by creating a watch that incorporates innovative craftsmanship and locally sourced components.

“The result is a highly specified model with new materials, new ideas and a flavour of the Jura – delivering accessible excellence,” says Maurice Lacroix managing director Stéphane Waser.