Cestino Pecorino, Terre di Chieiti IGT, Italy 2018 (£6.35, the Co-op) It’s most likely something about how it is sold in this country – and, to be fair, the way it’s written about – but there’s a slightly weird intensity about the way we go about buying wine. It’s as if we expect every wine we buy to blow our socks off in a way that we don’t with other food and drink. Even the most basic wine will have a tasting note filled with adjectives suggesting complexity and inviting contemplation. There are wines worthy of serious attention. More often, what you want is a pleasant end to a day, or an accompaniment for dinner. This is something well understood by Italian white-wine makers. And there’s a craft in producing unshowy, discreetly delicious wines like this pecorino from Abruzzo that bring out the best in, say, creamy pasta.