The Moroccan restaurateur Kamal Laftimi, 53, grew up on the edges of Jemaa el-Fna, the main public square of Marrakesh and an entrance to the city’s historic medina quarter. All day, and late into the night, travelers, musicians and local families wander through its cafes, souvenir shops and food stalls, against a soundtrack of hawkers’ shouts and the calls to prayer from the nearby Koutoubia Mosque. “The square is always changing,” said Laftimi recently in the leafy courtyard of his latest restaurant, the Pétanque Social Club, located outside of the medina’s ancient walls, in the upscale neighborhood of Gueliz. “You [go there] in the early morning and then a few hours later, it’s got a whole different atmosphere.”