Legacy of Peranakan cuisine continues
New management at Petaling Jaya eatery retains some evergreen dishes while adding new ones
THOSE who enjoy Peranakan food might be familiar with the Nyonya flavours of a restaurant in SS2, Petaling Jaya.
Known as Bibichik, it evokes memories of the good old days when Roy Chew, a singing guitarist, would perform songs of Elvis Presley, Cliff Richard and Stevie Wonder on weekend nights.
Chew was the lead guitarist of “The Merry Lads” a band that had played on Serbanika, a weekly television musical aired over RTM1 in the 1970s.
Though Chew no longer performs here, the almost three- decade-old restaurant continues to serve up enduring flavours of Lemak Nanas Tiger Prawns and Honey Sotong.
One story that Wong Lin Chi, the new main shareholder of Bibichik, will never tire of sharing, is what made him decide to take over its management about six months ago.
A view of the restaurant’s cosy dining space.
The father of two recalled an old friend asking if he was interested to take over the Peranakan eatery as the original owners were opting out of the business.
Wong went to the restaurant for a meal with his friend, an avid foodie who had been a regular diner at Bibichik for 20 years.
When he finally stepped foot into the premises, Wong’s first impression of the restaurant was that it looked rundown.
“The air conditioning was not functioning well. The toilet bowls had cracks and stains.
“I was also bitten in three different places by mosquitoes. However, my friend urged me to stay and try the food first,” said Wong.
It was the Crispy Brinjal that sealed the deal.
Coated with barbecue sauce, the purple-hued fruit had been cut to bite-sized rectangles, battered and deep fried in hot oil.
The result was a crisp outer layer that yielded into a soft, silky flesh which melted in Wong’s mouth like luxurious chocolate.
(From left) Yun, Wong and Chiam presenting an array of Peranakan favourites. — Photos: LOW BOON TAT/The Star
“Right after the meal, I called my partner, who is also the head chef of our yakiniku business in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, to tell him that I had taken over the place,” said Wong.
The first thing Wong and his partner did was to give the place a makeover.
Besides a fresh new look for the dining area, newly installed electrical wiring, sewage, plumbing and kitchen upgrades costing up to half a million ringgit were needed to breathe fresh life to the venture.
Wong is especially proud of the restaurant’s washroom, which looks like a five-star hotel facility.
Just like the original owners, the restaurant’s new team of shareholders comprise mostly family members.
Bibichik’s head chef Zeniq Chiam, is married to Wong’s sister-in law.
Chiam is also a TV host with 14,000 followers on his Instagram account.
Kerabu ladies’ fingers.
Wong’s wife, Virose Yun, is also a partner at Bibichik.
Having started his culinary career at 19, Chiam, a Penangite, trained as a Chinese cook at Kusu Association.
Though Bibichik has retained many of the restaurant’s evergreen favourites such as Ju Hoo Char Pie Tee and Ayam Pong Teh, Chiam has also added 20 new items to the menu. Nasi Lemak Wagyu is one of them.
To preserve authenticity, Gilbert Thomas, the cook who worked for the previous owners, was retained.
Despite the proliferation of international and Michelin-star restaurants in the food and beverage scene of late, Chiam said one must not forget that “general taste” will always prevail in the end.
“For example, where Asian palates are concerned, there is always the yearning for food that tastes close to home,” said Chiam.
To maintain efficiency when serving the lunch crowd, the establishment has limited its afternoon menu to quick-serve items like Nyonya laksa, nasi lemak and fried noodles to name a few.
Diners planning to order dinner items like Assam Garoupa and Itik Tim are advised to call in advance so that the kitchen can prepare.
Bibichik, 17, Jalan SS2/30, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. (Tel: 011-7023 3354) Business hours: 11am to 3pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.
……Read full article on The Star Online - Metro
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