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Mark Bittman’s salmon roasted in butter. Credit...Jim Wilson/The New York Times

Good morning. Five years ago I was a week into lockdown, terrified of the pandemic raging outside my door. I’d laid in supplies to keep my family fed for a month, acquired a ton of masks and gallons of antiseptic, set up a home office in my bedroom and just generally prepared us for what we all assumed would be a fairly short stint at home.