KUALA LUMPUR, July 9 — Just because anyone can offer fish head noodles doesn’t mean they can do it well.

That elusive bowl, which ticks all the boxes, from fresh fish to a broth that stands well on its own, can now be found inside Pudu’s Restoran San Jee.

Opened about six years ago, this stall, including others serving Hong Kong style roast meats and pork noodles, inside this coffee shop is operated by the restaurant owner.

The fish head noodles stall is manned by a bunch of young foreign workers who have picked up the skills of cooking each bowl upon order.

Soong fish (left) has a smooth skin and flesh while grouper fish skin (right) has more bite with firmer meat. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

The menu is kept short and sweet. Select either grouper or Soong fish and a choice of the head or cut into slices.

Not in the mood to wrestle with bones? Well, don’t fret as there’s the safe choice of chunky pieces of bouncy fish paste (yue wat).

Not a fan of pesky bones? The way to go is fish paste together with seaweed and ‘fuchuk’. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

The fish is ultra fresh — slipping off the bone — and thickly cut to allow one to slowly relish every bite.

It’s kept natural, unlike other fish head noodles stalls where they prefer to coat it with batter and deep fry the fish head pieces.

Each bowl is cooked individually with an 8-hour broth using old chicken and pork bones. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

All of this sings in the intense broth, said to be slowly simmered for eight hours, using old chicken and pork bones, and laced with Shao Xing rice wine.

It’s a big change from the usual clear fish based broths used for this type of noodles.

All bowls come blanketed with lush greenery in the form of chopped spring onions and Chinese parsley, further enhancing that drinkable broth that also includes thin shavings of young ginger.

It’s further perked up with golden, fluffy nuggets of sinful fried lard, while the grouper fish and fish paste bowls include seaweed and fried fuchuk.

Smooth Soong fish slices with jelly-like bits is best paired with that amazing chicken and pork broth. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Soong fish is a velvety choice especially when you get to the jelly-like belly part.

Most diners here obviously prefer the Soong fish head as it runs out quickly.

It’s definitely a workout for the mouth, going through each piece with the bones but the reward is worth it, as one gets to savour the slippery pieces of fish flesh mixed with the gelatinous parts.

Grouper fish, cut into thick slices here, with that distinct chewy, thick skin. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Grouper, on the other hand, has firmer flesh and is sought after for its thick, slightly chewy skin.

With the fish head, there’s more of that awesome skin to relish, so take your time to clean out the bones.

Choices for noodles are limited to hor fun, lai fun or beehoon.

Order your bowl of noodles at the stall located at the side of the coffee shop. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Go for the hor fun as the flat rice noodles have a smooth texture, working so well with that flavoursome broth.

This corner restaurant with its distinct leafy canopy fronting it is a neighbourhood haunt, where locals sit around tables to “spill the tea” over a bowl of fish head noodles.

That happy buzz and camaraderie, especially in helping each other out when the local authorities come to issue parking tickets, gives this place character.

A bowl of Soong fish noodles (head or meat) is priced at RM11, the grouper fish (head or meat) noodles is RM20. For the fish paste noodles, the price is RM10.

A neighbourhood haunt, this place sees many older folks sitting around a table sharing gossip and slurping down hot bowls of fish head noodles. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Fish Head Noodles Stall,

Restoran San Jee,

40, Lorong Yap Hing,

Pudu, Kuala Lumpur.

Open: 6am to 1pm. Closed on Monday.

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.