JB style 'wantan mee', “levelled up” with a large fried prawn cake. – Pictures by CK Lim

JOHOR BARU, Sept 16 — “Raise the red lanterns!”

That’s the first thought that came to mind when we arrived at the shop. There are splashes of red everywhere — from the walls to the large woodcut style posters. No, we aren’t at an art gallery or a courtesan’s boudoir.