Clockwise from top left: pork in the pit at Valentina’s; Pitforks and Smokerings, in Slaton, Texas; a tray of barbecue at Pitforks and Smokerings; the chalkboard menu at Pitforks and Smokerings; a platter of smoked meat at Charlie’s, in Beaumont; Evan LeRoy and Sawyer Lewis, co-owners of LeRoy and Lewis, in Austin. Credit...Jessica Attie for The New York Times, JerSean Golatt for The New York Times, JerSean Golatt for The New York Times, JerSean Golatt for The New York Times, Jessica Attie for The New York Times, Sarah Karlan for The New York Times.