Pizza might be just dough, tomato and cheese, but it is far from simple. So says Jack Lander, co-founder of Bristol’s Pizzarova, a small group of stripped-back pizza shops. “Mastery of the dough is the hardest – there are things you can control, but so many more that you can’t,” he tells me.

He’s helping me taste 18 supermarket pizzas and I’m learning a lot, including that even the humidity of the flour can make a huge difference. Then there’s getting the rise, to make the classic bubbly, blistered crust.