It’s always a thrill to feast on cushiony wild morels and chanterelles, frilly hen of the woods, or black smudges of huitlacoche. But I grew up on those cultivated button mushrooms in the plastic-wrapped pints, and I like cooking with them, too! Even buttons carry the flavor of deep earth, of balmy decay, while somehow mopping up whatever you cook them in, whether it’s soy sauce or red wine, hot sauce or lime juice.