Matt Remick, Seth Rogen’s character on the Emmy juggernaut The Studio, may be the harried, in-over-his-head new overlord of the fictional Continental Studios, but his wardrobe epitomises Los Angeles back lot cool.

Forever trying his very best to appear like he knows what he’s doing, Remick wears a steady stream of well-cut suits in groovy near-neutrals (mustard, burnt umber, cream).

Remick may not be able to bring back artful cinema to Hollywood, but he nails the "powerful creative” look in no small part thanks to a fleet of double-breasted jackets, worn casually open.

Rogen himself even wore a double breasted velvet tux (in rust, not black) last Sunday (Sept 14) to accept his first Emmy award for lead actor in a comedy series.

Yes, it’s back, baby. The double-breasted suit jacket is making inroads into fashion circles of late, shaking off its dusty country club reputation in favour of a vibe that’s younger, fresher and, dare we say it, cool.

It’s also surprisingly easy to wear.

"I always find double-breasted is the most flattering on most men’s figures,” said Chaise Dennis, a stylist whose client, the actor Tramell Tillman, glided down the red carpet at Cannes this spring to promote the latest Mission: Impossible film wearing a creamy double-breasted suit from Dolce & Gabbana, jacket insouciantly open. 

Read more: Menswear puts its best foot forward, as toe-baring styles step onto the runway

Also at Cannes was ASAP Rocky in a louche double-breasted suit from Saint Laurent.

Ditto Josh O’Connor, who wore his 3x3 brown Prada DB buttoned up with a pink flower on the lapel. 

Designers picked up the thread at the menswear Spring/Summer 2026 shows.

Double-breasted jackets – sometimes worn languidly undone – were featured in the collections of labels such as Giorgio Armani, the Row, Ralph Lauren, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Dior, Brunello Cucinelli and more, part of a sea change in men’s suiting. 

"I’m all about making tailoring less stuffy,” says Dennis, who notes that for inspiration he looks to classically stylish men such as Bryan Ferry, David Byrne, Serge Gainsbourg and even the Blaxploitation stars of the 1970s and 80s.

"These are men who have made a double-breasted jacket work for a variety of situations-it’s a real day-to-night look,” he says.

ASAP Rocky wearing a double-breasted suit, accompanying Rihanna at the Cannes Film Festival in May. Photo: Anadolu via AFPIn his home of Los Angeles, Dennis says double-breasted jackets with throwback flair are now sought after at vintage shops around town.

He sees young men wearing them open and pairing them with boots-sometimes even of the cowboy variety-and worn-in jeans.

His advice, if you do try this look, is to let the jacket "do most of the talking”.

Jake Mueser, proprietor of the New York-based custom tailoring operation J Mueser, sees this as a natural progression of the loosening silhouette that’s happening more broadly for men.

Long gone are the slim-even skinny-suits of the 2010s.

They’ve been replaced by a roomier, less edgy fit. And as fuller, pleated pants  gain momentum, Mueser notes that the jacket needs to adjust to balance the proportions. 

Mueser believes this is the way a new generation of men are embracing tailoring-not for an office uniform or inherently formal garments, but for wearable clothes with ease and panache baked in.

Moreover, the less-constricting fit of today’s double-breasted jacket marries a once ceremonial style with the comforts people became accustomed to during the pandemic.

People want to get dressed up again, but it would be nice if they didn’t feel trussed or constrained.

"It’s part of this post-Covid everyday world,” Mueser says, adding that men are coming to him to ask for suits not just for formal work environments but to wear to parties or on date nights. 

Marco Stratemann, who works in IT at a multinational information and communications company, has been a double-breasted enthusiast for a while now and is happy to welcome all the new fans to a style he discovered 15 years ago.

He was first wooed by a navy Burberry blazer, which he wears with light-colored trousers or jeans.

A frequent suit wearer, he says he opts for a double-breasted jacket to get himself into a certain mindset.

"I like to dress up when I need to be disciplined.”

Read more: This menswear savant gets paid to travel the world and buy cool vintage pieces

His message must be rubbing off-his 19-year-old son also wears them now. 

This trend is so pervasive it’s even jumped the gender divide. Brands such as Stella McCartney, Bottega Veneta, Loro Piana and Gucci all featured the style this season for women.

"A double-breasted jacket feels timeless and confident, with an appealing ‘borrowed from the boys’ vibe,” says Emilie Hawtin, a writer who founded a women’s tailoring brand called Clementina.

"It’s both elevated and forgiving.” 

Hawtin always wears her double-breasted jackets open and has been opting for a polo shirt underneath, though a relaxed dress shirt or even a men’s linen shirt works as well.

She notes that a collared shirt helps complete the look.

"More women are turning to tailoring-not just because the options are getting better, but because it’s freeing in a way,” she says.

"Tailored clothing makes life simpler-it’s powerful, efficient, and polished. And far more interesting.” – Bloomberg