A classy chardonnay from one of the hottest producers in Argentina? An atmospheric Brunello di Montalcino, drinking nicely now and perfect for pairing with a rib of beef? No, we’re not in a smart wine merchant but standing in the wine aisle of Tesco. Last autumn, the supermarket conducted the biggest review of its wine range in more than 15 years, launching 130 new products (and removing a similar number from its shelves, to make space) and some of them are really good.