Maison Nico is a new pâtisserie and market in San Francisco's Jackson Square, where delicacies like pâté en croûte, terrine, and brioche feuilletée compete for one's attention. Then again, everything pales in comparison to them. The lacquered, artfully layered half-domes. The aspics. If you're not accustomed to thinking of aspic as an object of desire, chef Nicholas Delaroque aims to change that. "Most people are familiar with pâté, but the aspic is the eye-catcher," he says. "Once people discover it, they really enjoy it."